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Equally confusing is any attempt to estimate the number of hand-pulled rickshaws that ply in the city.

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The Presidency University is Kolkata’s apogee of learning and contributes to the name of this street along with the nearby University of Calcutta.

Presidency was founded in 1817 by Raja Ram Mohan Roy and David Hare among others, and has the likes of Swami Vivekananda, Subhash Chandra Bose, Satyajit Ray and Amartya Sen in its alumni.

It is also the alma mater of Sunrita Sen, a journalist now in Delhi, but with strong links to her home city.

“Each time I go back to College Street it looks the same,” she says.

To negotiate the city during rainstorms means braving mud, slush, knee-deep waterlogging, traffic snarls and drains blocked with litter. My spirits always soar, with the help of many a familiar monsoon verse, away into the ethereal realm of newly-washed tree tops swaying above the concrete clutter and the cool caress of the damp breeze carrying a whiff of wet earth. When you cannot go out because of the rain, what better thing than to sit for hours with friends?